TODO
The task list for the backyard edible landscape project. Diary entries and photo reviews are on the Log page.
Do This Week
- Vacation prep for the 2-week Florida trip (8/5 diary): pick the netted peach tree's ripening/ripe fruit and any dark-blue blueberries before leaving, and line up a watering plan (timer or a neighbor check-in) for the container plants β staged pots by the foundation, and the paw paw + blackberry tote β since none of them can go 2 weeks unattended. Trip's come and gone β the peach netting came down while away and the deer got the fruit, and the tomatoes went dry; see 8/20 diary.
- Water the tomatoes deeply β visibly dry after two weeks away, then get them on a regular watering schedule (8/20 diary)
- Re-stake and re-secure the peach tree netting β a support stake snapped and the netting collapsed to the ground while away, deer got in and stripped the fruit (8/20 diary)
- Decide whether to let the volunteer squash and okra run where they sprouted or transplant them somewhere more intentional (8/20 diary)
- Pick ripe (fully dark blue) blueberries from the netted potted bushes β ripening unevenly, check back every 3–4 days for the next flush (7/8 diary)
- Cover the bare spot where herbs were moved FROM (front fence bed, left side) β lay cardboard + compost before weeds move in
- Sheet mulch the herb strip along the right side of the house: lay cardboard from string line to house wall to smother the grass (use cardboard already on hand)
- Check the bare-branched shrub in the large black pot β scratch bark; if green = alive, if brown/dry = dead. Dead β scratch test came back brown/dry throughout, composted the whole shrub.
- Move indoor plants back inside
Do Soon (This Month)
- Pick up the 55-gallon rain barrel from Hicksville Craigslist ($20) β already spotted, fits in Honda Odyssey on its side
- Pick up raspberry and/or blackberry starts from the Central Islip Craigslist plant ad ($2–$5 each, 353 Nicoll Ave) β fills the already-planned raspberry slots in the orchard/berry zone alongside the existing blueberries. Skip the walnut on that ad (juglone risk near the tomatoes/blueberries); hold off on apple/kiwi until sourced deliberately (unknown variety/pollinator, and kiwi needs a trellis not yet planned)
- Add a first-flush diverter before the rain barrel inlet (simple double-downspout or plug-tube) to shunt away the first ~5–6 gallons of roof grit per storm β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 10
- Elevate the rain barrel on a stand/blocks so it can gravity-feed a hose to the raised beds instead of dipping/carrying β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 10
- Confirm the rain barrel overflow is piped away from the foundation, not just a loose hose β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 10
- Decide permanent planting sites for the paw paw sapling and blackberry cane (from the water-container seller, 8/3 diary) β paw paw wants part shade while young and full sun once established, plus a second paw paw eventually for cross-pollination; blackberry wants full sun and room to sprawl or a trellis. As of 8/5 they've been moved together into one large tote container by the fence near the AC unit β a workable interim step, but too tight a fit for both long-term.
- Get a soil test β send samples from the side yard raised beds and the new herb strip to Cornell Cooperative Extension or UMass Extension (~$18). Test before adding amendments. (Issue #19)
- Call local landscaping companies and offer the property as a dump site for wood chips and leaves β free mulch (Issue #20). Do NOT accept grass clippings (may have herbicides).
Do This Season
- Build outdoor kitchen in NW corner β clear overgrowth, build cedar counter/shelf/tool-rack unit between the two large tree trunks. Full plan at
superpowers/plans/2026-06-27-outdoor-kitchen.md - Set up a starter trellis for the "wall of roses" project on the gable-end wall (8/4 diary): temporary metal T-posts (12–18" deep) + galvanized chicken wire, ~2.5 ft in front of the wall, clear of the existing foundation shrubs. Plant the long spindly rose bush and fan its canes horizontally as it grows. Upgrade to concrete-footed posts (below frost line) + a proper panel before the canes get heavy β chicken wire is a temporary hold, not the long-term structure. The other two rose bushes are earmarked for later, not this round.
- Add a hose bib or simple water access near the outdoor kitchen zone, and consider pavers/decking over the raked-dirt cooking area for a durable, sweepable surface — not in the current build plan, but called out as core to a working "summer kitchen" β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 18
- Finish the new strawberry/garlic bed per The No-Till Organic Vegetable Farm's Method B (Sheet Mulch), already the book's prescribed approach for this exact side-yard expansion: plain (uncoated, tape/labels removed) cardboard over the hardware cloth — done — then 2–4″ of partially rotted leaves over the cardboard, then finish with compost (not plain soil) where the bed itself will be, wood chips in the paths
- Seed white clover in paths between raised beds (Issue #14)
- Add marigolds, borage, or nasturtiums to kitchen garden beds for pest control and biodiversity (Issue #17)
- Consider planting comfrey as an on-site nitrogen/mulch source (cut 3–5x/season, ~2% N by dry weight) — fits the "never add nitrogen fertilizer" rule better than relying on diazotrophs alone β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 13
- Try training the caged tomato plant under a west/south eave next season β can extend the growing season up to 2 months by protecting against moisture and early frost β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 13
- Cast seeds of dill, fennel, mustard, nasturtium, yarrow, clover, and/or vetch under the orchard/berry netting as floor cover β suppresses weeds and doubles as beneficial-insect nectary plants (same list as Chapter 15's pest-predator plants) β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 17
- Undersow any brassica/beet/spinach beds with clover or beans (mycorrhizal companion, Issue #16)
- Stockpile fall oak leaves from the 3 backyard oaks β browns for compost (Issue #12)
- Lay the roll of galvanized hardware cloth (mesh ≤1/2") on grade under the side yard raised beds before filling/refilling with soil, since these beds sit directly on the ground rather than having a built-in bottom β blocks vole tunneling up into the bed from native soil below; moles are beneficial and shouldn't be excluded from open ground elsewhere
Do Before Winter
- Plant winter cover crop in all raised beds after last fall harvest (Issue #15)
- Plan deer fence β spec confirmed: 8-foot woven wire on 11-foot T-posts (Issue #3). Independently confirmed as the minimum effective height in The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 15 — a floppy/indistinct top deters deer better than a rigid, clearly-visible one, since they won't leap a barrier they can't see through
- Plant daffodils near young/potted fruit trees to repel voles, which eat roots (unlike moles, which are beneficial insect-eaters and shouldn't be trapped) β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 15
- Bury a hardware-cloth root collar (mesh ≤1/2″) around the remaining/surviving apple tree(s) — the Liberty apple's earlier root damage ("some mole or underground creature ate the soil underneath it") and the dead apple tree removed 2026-05-27 both look like vole damage in hindsight. Keep any cardboard or mulch collar from touching the trunk itself — contact mulch right at the base creates mouse/vole habitat exactly where you don't want it β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 16
- Get a broadfork for occasional bed aeration without tilling (Issue #13)
Ongoing Rules (Never Forget)
- Never till any bed β top-dress with compost only
- Never leave soil bare more than 24 hours β always cover with compost or straw
- Use rain barrel water for beds; tap water is backup only (protects soil organisms from chlorine)
- Always companion-plant brassicas/beets/spinach with a mycorrhizal host (clover, beans, marigolds)
- Compost ratio: 20–30 parts carbon (cardboard, leaves) to 1 part nitrogen (grass, food scraps) by volume — corrected 2026-07-09 from a prior "2 parts carbon to 1" note, which runs too nitrogen-heavy and risks an anaerobic, nitrogen-losing pile (The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 11)
- Never add nitrogen fertilizer β let diazotroph bacteria provide it
Ideas / Someday
Sell flowers instead of food? (2026-07-09)
Claude's take: Lean toward flowers/plant starts over food for a first selling experiment β the existing nursery/staging area already has sellable ornamental stock sitting idle (hydrangea cuttings, rose cuttings, blanket flower/coreopsis divisions, butterfly bush), so this is testing demand on inventory that already exists rather than a new production commitment. A nearby Miller Place listing (~15 min away, screenshotted 2026-07-09) sells "Limelight" perennial hydrangea starters in 6" pots at $10 each, rising with plant size β a direct, local pricing comp for exactly the kind of stock already on hand.
Food crops (vegetables, berries) carry harder constraints for casual selling: short shelf life, lower price per unit of effort, and more competition from actual farm stands/farmers markets. Potted plant starts don't spoil on a clock, and the local comp suggests real demand.
One thing worth checking before scaling past occasional Craigslist sales: New York requires a Nursery Dealer Certificate of Registration (NYS Ag & Markets) to sell live plants commercially, even at modest volume β cut flowers don't carry the same requirement. Worth a quick check with Suffolk County before this grows beyond a one-off listing.
The landscaper-career angle also fits well here: propagating and selling starts builds real, demonstrable horticultural skill (propagation, container culture, plant ID) at low stakes, and a personal nursery stock is a genuine asset if landscaping installs are ever part of that future β plants grown on-site instead of bought wholesale.
Worth revisiting once the book review reaches Chapter 21, "Markets and Outreach" β good chapter to test this decision against.
Update (Chapter 7, "Land β Scales and Strategies"): Independent confirmation from the book itself. Bane classifies garden farms by lot size, and a property this size (~0.43 acre) sits right at the boundary of his "Tiny City Lot" (up to ~ΒΌ acre) and "Multi-Lot/Microfarm" (ΒΌ–ΒΎ acre) tiers. For the Tiny City Lot tier specifically, he writes that cash income "would come mostly from adding value (e.g., berry jams and jellies or botanicals), through sale of seed, herbs, nursery plants or breeding animals or perhaps from flowers" — naming flowers explicitly as a fitting cash crop at exactly this scale, independent of the Craigslist comp.
Update (Chapter 12, "Plants, Crops and Seeds"): More encouragement, plus a real caveat. Bane calls the nursery trade "the most profitable form of horticulture per square foot," citing cuttings turning "a half hour of work" into a "$1,000 crop two years out." But the chapter never addresses plant patents — many named cultivars (including "Limelight" hydrangea, the exact variety in the Miller Place comp) are patented, which can legally restrict propagating for sale even though growing one for personal use is fine. Worth checking patent status before selling named cultivars specifically, as opposed to unnamed/unpatented stock.
Update (Chapter 13, "Setting Plant Priorities"): A third independent citation. In Bane's explicit priority order for small plots, flowers rank third overall (after herbs and salad greens) specifically because they "represent a good potential cash crop and are important for sowing goodwill among your neighbors and passersby" — on top of the Chapter 7 and Chapter 12 mentions, the book consistently treats flowers as a fitting small-lot cash crop, not just a hobby.
Final verdict (Chapter 21, "Markets and Outreach"): This is the chapter that was supposed to test the decision, and it comes down decisively in favor. Bane's core marketing principle is to sell "small things of high value... to which you have added your services and your intelligence" — his own ranked list of the most profitable surplus categories puts plants and seed at the very top, above fruits, vegetables, and herbs. His worked example is almost identical to this situation: "Dividing perennials, selling off surplus trees and shrubs, we add value to the work. If your echinaceas are crowding something nearby and someone wants echinacea plants — boom, you have a crop." That's the hydrangea/rose/blanket-flower staging area, described almost exactly. He also frames a backyard nursery as the single best complementary micro-business specifically because "you'll obviously need to plant thousands of plants... it's easy to create more than you need," so surplus starts are close to free to generate. Practical tactics worth using if a stand or listing goes beyond Craigslist: price in round dollar amounts ($1/$2/$3), keep a cash jar rather than staffing it, and add a small unpriced extra to every sale ("lagniappe" — an extra cutting, a growing tip) to build repeat customers. Net: four independent chapters (7, 12, 13, 21) all point the same direction — flowers/plant starts are a better first product than food, using inventory that already exists. This thread is resolved; no more citations needed unless the plan changes.
- Check Suffolk County / NYS Ag & Markets nursery dealer registration requirements before selling potted plant starts beyond an occasional listing
- Trial-list a few hydrangea/rose/blanket flower starts on Craigslist this season at the Miller Place comp price (~$10/6" pot) to test local demand
- Check plant patent status before selling any named/patented cultivars (e.g. if propagating a "Limelight"-type hydrangea specifically) — unpatented/unnamed stock is unaffected β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 12
- Try willow-water rooting hormone (soak chopped willow stems in water overnight, use the water on cuttings) on the next batch of rose/hydrangea cuttings β The Permaculture Handbook, Chapter 12
From Book Notes
Tasks pulled from Books as each chapter is reviewed, tagged with source. Kept here as the single task list β see the book notes pages for the reasoning behind each one.
- Write a one-sentence holistic goal / mission statement for this garden (revisit after Chapter 3 β Holistic Planning) β The Permaculture Market Garden, Introduction
- Sketch a "Rule of Three" grouping for current production: pick 3 core zones/enterprises and note which existing plants belong to each β The Permaculture Market Garden, Introduction
- Identify which staged pots (oregano, marigold, lantana, blanket flower, rose cuttings, hydrangeas) are candidates to move into a permanent bed as a planted guild, vs. which should stay potted β The Permaculture Market Garden, Introduction
- Add an explicit annual "soil investment" line to the seasonal TODO (compost/amendment budget), tying into the existing no-till compost rules above β The Permaculture Market Garden, Introduction
- Note brassica beds in the garden log so mycorrhizal-dependent crops aren't planted there immediately after, without a cover-crop/compost break in between β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 1
- Try one small trap-crop experiment this season (e.g. an early sacrificial brassica or lettuce patch, left unsprayed, positioned away from the main beds) and log what pest pressure it draws off β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 1
- Interplant a small amount of a beneficial-attracting flower (alyssum, or one of the already-blooming species) directly into a vegetable bed row, not just in nearby pots, and note any change in aphid/pest levels β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 1
- When doing a soil test (already on the to-do list above), also check whether local extension offers organic-matter or biological activity data, not just NPK/pH β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 1
- Pick a standard raised-bed width (organizational unit) to use consistently for any new beds in the kitchen-garden expansion area, so tools/row-cover/supplies stay interchangeable β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 2
- Walk the existing side-yard beds specifically to note moisture and stoniness variation bed-by-bed (Garden Environment Mapping), rather than assuming uniform soil conditions across the row β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 2
- Track frost-pocket locations next fall (where tender plants die first) to inform where spring transplants go β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 2
- Name the resource ecologies on
resources/site_map_full.svgexplicitly (e.g. "prime kitchen garden," "orchard/berry zone") if not already done, to make the existing map double as a working design-area map β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 2 - Write a short Holistic Goal for the property (quality of life + what needs to be produced to support it + how the land should look in 10-20 years) and keep it visible on this page to test future decisions against β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 3
- Before starting any non-trivial project (new bed layout, new structure), write down the actual "why" first instead of just "because we can" β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 3
- Commit to a fixed small number of new perennials (trees/shrubs/natives) to plant every year, budgeted and planned in advance rather than as an occasional impulse buy β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 3
- Look into Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County (or a local garden club) as an ongoing source of growing advice specific to Long Island soil/climate β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 3
- Set up a simple color-coding system (tape or labeled bins) for recurring garden task categories, e.g. blue for irrigation, green for seeding/planting, red for bed prep β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 4
- Before adding or removing a planting or structure, run it through the "aesthetic and useful" test β is it beautiful enough to keep, or useful enough that a future owner would want to keep it? β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 4
- Map a full seed-to-compost cycle diagram for garlic and tomatoes to spot any missing steps (e.g. a consistent compost-return step) in the current process β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 4
- Favor simple, passive infrastructure (e.g. gravity-fed rain-barrel drip irrigation) over powered/mechanized options when building out the outdoor-kitchen zone or new beds β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 4
- Reform the existing side-yard raised beds each season (fold path material onto the bed top) instead of fully tearing down and rebuilding them β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Adopt "cover crop priority" as a standing rule β never leave a harvested bed bare; follow every harvest with either the next crop or a fast cover crop (clover, buckwheat, oats depending on season) β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Set up near/middle/far frequency zones: daily-need herbs and cut flowers close to the kitchen door, main vegetables in the current kitchen garden, single-harvest storage crops (garlic, winter squash) farther out β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Map unchangeable bed character (slope, aspect, rockiness) vs. changeable character (fertility, organic matter, pH) for the existing side-yard beds, bed by bed β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Plant specific known pest deterrents next to vulnerable crops: chives near carrots (carrot rust fly), thyme near brassicas (cabbage loopers), nasturtium near squash (squash bugs) β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Let a spent lettuce, arugula, or radish planting bolt and flower in place as a "crop-cover crop" instead of pulling it immediately, for pollinator habitat and organic matter β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Plan bed rotations as guilds, not single crops β schedule the crop, its companion planting, and the cover crop that bridges to the next planting all as one unit β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Start a simple perennial log noting what non-food benefit each existing perennial (fruit trees, blueberries, grape vine, future berries) already provides β shade, windbreak, pollinator habitat, soil improvement β to track "return on perennial investment" over time β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Trial any new perennial species in a small planting close to the house first, and only propagate/expand it elsewhere on the property once it's proven itself on-site β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 5
- Keep "simple, slow, sound" as an explicit gut-check on project scope β before starting a new bed, structure, or fence project, confirm it can actually be well-maintained rather than over-scoping it β The Permaculture Market Garden, Chapter 6